Deux Escargots

Deux Escargots

Days 6 to 8, a little exhausting

We are in Huntly and on a hookup – with lots of lovely power for the lappie. Now,  if the 23rd of the month was …

Day 5

We paused this morning to empty waste and fill with water then drove up into the town and parked in order to buy ice cream …

Day 4

Really? Only Day 4!

Well, here we are in Brora, at the Sea Breezes caravan site. It may not be the world’s prettiest site but it serves its purpose and is well placed for our needs, The site was once a Cold War Listening Station (nicknamed The Gulag Archipelago) – and it shows.

Yes, it is ugly
Yes, it is ugly

Outside the perimeter fence is a coastal footpath walk that goes all the way to Golspie – that and a sandy beach, if curse. Nell is delighted.  Once again we are parked looking out to sea. Tonight we can see the lights of Lossiemouth in the far distance, twinkling through the mesh wire of the fence,

We have just arrived home after eating out at Sid’s Spice, where I was treated to the most delicious Tarka Dall and the best Naan Bread that I have had in many long years.

Earlier this afternoon we sought out the  local branch of Harry Gow’s and had a double cornet each. I had Coconut with Chocolate, and Raspberry flavours; Mr Snail had Melon and Honeycomb in his. It has been hot and sunny all day once again and the ice cream was welcome.

The moment that we rolled into town we were hailed by the gentleman who had parked next to us at Duncansby Head. He and his wife spotted us again as we wildly attempted to navigate the town and find our place. Luckily when we asked directions a local young woman offered to drive ahead of us and show us the way. Thank you to her, whoever she was. Our motorhoming colleagues followed us down to the site and came to say hello, and show off the morning’s yarn purchases. I brewed up, of course.

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Too hot to close the door, so Nell was happy

The ride down here was a short one, under 30 miles from Dunbeath where we had spent a very pleasant night… listening to the rain. It rained solidly from supper time to breakfast but cleared to offer us a marvellous day. I sat at breakfast watching the creel boats at work on a mostly flat and sparkling sea. The lights on the sea were twinkling so vigorously that the effect reminded me of a Star Trek alien from another dimension. It was quite hypnotic.

We took Nell for a walk along the coastal path before leaving and she made lots of new friends when a tourist coach came in.

I left a donation in the collecting box at the boat house to say thank you for our overnight accommodation.

Tomorrow we head for the Brahan Estate, where we shall spend three nights. It will be a wee while before we see the sea again.

Mr Snail has been making enquiries about fixing the exhaust. One of the recommendations received was for a place in Elgin, where it just so happens that we intend to be on Monday. Seemingly we may avoid the expense of sending to America for an exhaust pipe and an end-piece may be specially fashioned for us. Watch this space.

If nothing can be done on Monday we have the option of returning later in the week after the ARI appointment, missing out Balmoral and Glenshee, but still arriving at Pitlochry in time for the Enchanted Forest. The backup plan would see us parking up at Lossiemouth and in sight of the sea once more, so I’m fairly laid back about this possibility.

Day 3

Note to Self: If parking overnight adjacent to a lighthouse, then expect the obvious.

Last night we sat in the front seats, Talisker at hand, inserted the USB stick with our music on it into the stereo (it began with Adiemus, I guess that we have no Abba) and watched the sea until it became dark… and then we watched the  lights. We counted at least a dozen Lighthouses within view.

A fat orange moon rose over the sea to our right. I should have loved to go out and photograph it but (a) a strong wind had come up and (b) the lighthouse beam would have spoiled the effect anyway. Later we took the dog out before bed and marvelled at the Milky Way. This would be a stunning location for Aurora watching sometime.

The wind strengthened through the night and we were woken by the gentle thud of rubber on rubber as our mudflaps struck the wheels at intervals.

This morning dawned bright and fair. There was a lot of lenticular cloud lit by the rising sun. I felt as though I should go and observe this for myself, camera in hand but I was snug in my bed and coffee had been delivered. It was still very windy when we took Nell out for a morning walk – and that wind significantly cooler than the day before. I had to don a fleece.

We strolled down to the beach, where I tried to get some seal shots, There was some really good seal action but my camera skills let me down quite badly.

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The drive down to Dunbeath was a pleasant one. I have previously been unimpressed by Caithness, finding it bleak and unlovely but today I saw it with a fresh eye. The light was fabulous and I saw much photographic potential as we ambled along. My cries of “I should love to photograph that!” went unheard, unfortunately.

It was a short journey and we arrived in Dunbeath at midday. I confess to some alarm when I saw how narrow a gap we were aiming for in order to arrive at our overnight spot. I sucked my girth in and we made it. I am not looking forward to going out again!

Note the handily-placed rock
Note the handily-placed rock

It was worth it. This is a smashing spot, quiet and well out of anyone’s way.

After lunch we walked the dog along the Dunbeath Strath, which furnished me with a ruin to photograph, an old Inn.

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At one point I looked to my left and saw three deer, one young Roe buck and two does just standing on a rise in the middle of a field and looking directly at me. Whilst I was attempting to liberate my camera and park my walking pole, Nell came galloping back to see where we were and the deer were startled. I had to settle for enjoying the sight of their white alarm flags soaring over the fence and far away.

Dunbeath is a smashing wee place, full of interest and cannot be recommended highly enough. I would be happy to return here at any time.

Our  berth for the night
Our berth for the night

Day 2

The now-traditional Sibster Forest al fresco breakfast We had one other van for company overnight plus a Land Rover and tent. Nell enjoyed her walk …

Day 1

We got away last night and reached the top of the road only for Mr Snail to recall that he had left his coat and wallet at home. He did a magnificent job of reversing all the way back to the gate…

We set off again. I was a little concerned about the exhaust puttering and asked if all was well. Mr Snail said it always sounds like that from a cold start.

On the way to Loth we heard an odd noise. I asked what it was and he said we must have run over something. I tried hard not to have images of cats running between the wheels.

We parked up at Loth and waited for the otters to come out and play. G&A Best came along to see us off and we all sat waiting for otters.

Hank at Loth in the evening light
Hank at Loth in the evening light

This morning we were up bright and early and ready for the early boat departure.

Ceridwen awaits the ferry to Kirkwall
Ceridwen awaits the ferry to Kirkwall

It was a beautiful morning and a calm sailing.

We exercised the dog and breakfasted on arrival in town and then hit the supermarkets before going for lunch at Helgi’s.

With time to kill before the ferry to Scrabster, we went to Brodgar for a walk around the RSPB reserve. As we set off, Mr Snail groaned. I asked what was wrong and he said, you see that exhaust pipe under the van? We used to have two of those.

Oh, dear.

The Pentland Firth was flat calm and plain sailing today. We set off for Sibster only to find the place chock full of motorhomes. It was a motorhome ghetto. Clearly the secret is out. We felt guilty about parking, and really ought to have gone elsewhere. But where?

Luckily four of the six vans here left without staying the night so now we don’t feel too bad. Just tired. Very, very tired.