Tomorrow we are leaving Sagres. It is difficult to believe that we have been here for a month. I would happily stay for another. However, we turn towards home now and it seems like an appropriate point in time to summarise the trip so far.
Vilargordo del Cabriel
Santa Elena Despenaperros
Valverde del Camino
La Rabida, Huelva
Home to Sagres = 2,190 Kilometres and 26 days.
56 Days elapsed
We are in no hurry and we don’t particularly want to be home before the Spring arrives. Having passed the Solstice and knowing that the sun is returning Northward we are happy enough to keep pace, more or less.
Our initial destination is Zambujeira do Mar. We are visiting purely in the spirit of adventure and discovery. Can’t keep returning to the same old places all the time.
There are photos. Yes, of course there are photos. Unfortunately a recent upgrade to WordPress seems to have broken the photo upload process so we shall have to wait for the images. My apologies for this interruption to normal service.
Deeply disappointed by our early return from the Dordogne and buoyed up by slightly cooler weather we effected our plan to go out “little and often” in an attempt to train the cats for living in the new van.
Another former Municipal campsite, smaller than the one at Tauriac and less formally arranged. Sanitaires again – just one toilet and one shower, and again rather basic. They don’t look very nice and could do with an upgrade but that shower performed fantastically well, with plenty of hot water on tap.
We chose this site for the same reasons that we chose the last one – good shade from mature trees and a safe area in case of cat-escape.
The weather being cooler and the cats being less hyper, we managed to stop out for our planned three nights. Melle offered plenty to keep us occupied and although I took many photographs on our wanderings I actually failed to find the time to take photos of the site, sorry.
An extensive network of footpaths can be accessed directly off the site. Much of the walking forms part of an Arboretum, with 1,800 different types of trees and 300 different roses. Three National Collections are held. There is an additional Forest Arboretum opening off the Discovery path, and a cycle route on the former railway extends to almost 15 km (linear route). Some walking routes are entirely off-road but others cross parts of the town
In the town there are three lovely Romanesque churches to visit, a market hall, a motorbike museum, and some historic silver mines to see. Good eating possibilities, with two Michelin-recommended establishments within half an hour’s stroll of the aire and plenty of other eateries available. A particularly lovely Lavoir is sited right by the aire. Children’s play area faces the site. Friday market.
I am going to give this one 4 stars also, mainly based on its fit with our preferred lifestyle.
We enjoyed our stay and plan to return in the future.
We ate out twice and made a salad on the other evening, so cooking facilities remain untested.
Having twice been to a site with showers, the bathroom remained untested also (but see forthcoming post…)
The bed remains comfortable and we slept transversely again.
Dusty and Chloé behaved better than we might have expected. Dusty was a bit rowdy on the journey there, Chloé elected to travel on the bench seat and snooze her way through the journey.
Dusty was less inclined to sit outside this time, due possibly to this site having become quite busy whilst we were there – he’s nervous of other people and vehicles. I put him out on a line but he chose to return inside.
I also tried Chloé on a line but she got in a bit of a guddle with the washing up bowl, scared herself and managed to back out of her escape-proof jacket. Fortunately she did not run off but went up on the axle somewhere similar and when she emerged, she also chose to go back inside the van.
Overall I believe that she is now pretty much bomb-proof in this respect, seeing the van as her safe place. We have concluded that she learned her lesson in Viviers and is now minded to stay close to home. We also believe that her stopping out for three nights was probably not of her own choosing.
Those may be filed under “famous last words” I expect.
Being on mains hook-up we plugged in a Feliway diffuser and nights were fairly calm. Dusty was far quieter on the drive home, though a long way from actually being silent. Chloé popped up into the over -parcel shelf and didn’t come out until we were parked back at home.
Overall I am leaning towards finding a tethering solution for travelling with Dusty in preference to putting him in a carrier. He’s far too active to allow him to be loose when we are driving but may complain less if not boxed. Mr Snail finds driving along to a cat’s chorus to be very stressful.
Our next task on the van will therefore be to fit an appropriate fixing point for the cat’s harness.
It was mid-canicule and powerfully hot at home so Mr Snail thought now the new van had arrived, the thing to do would be to go in search of cooler weather. He found some, down in the Dordogne and we packed up and took off .
We had chosen a CCP aire on an ex-municipal campsite that had good tree cover for shade and was away from roads (thank you, Nevilley) in case of cat escape.
Tauriac, Le Mas de la Croux
A nicely tended former Municipal Campsite. The trees are mature, as are the privacy hedges between pitches. The pitches themselves are spacious and unexpectedly feature flat concrete pads for parking.
A Plan d’Eau adjacent to the site features a small beach, supervised swimming (in season and in fixed hours) children’s play area, crazy golf and a bar/restaurant. Naturally, some noise is generated until late hours when the weather is clement.
The site is also bordered by a shallow and slow-running arm of the River Dordogne. There are smaller, unhedged pitches on concrete pads overlooking the river, lightly shaded by trees.
A rarity for motorhome aires – there are Sanitaires. Somewhat basic but better than no facilities at all. These are seasonal. Also the aire is shared with tenters and tuggers in high season.
There is no commerce in the village other than at the Guinguette but shops may be found at the next village, about a mile away. These remain untested by ourselves.
The site is very pleasant and we might have stayed there quite happily (and will probably return sometime) but the weather, although 7 degrees cooler than at home, remained too hot to be at all comfortable.
It was too hot to do anything other than to sit outside with a cooling fan running to generate some breeze – which is why I have no photographs to share.
We packed up early the following morning and fled home to our stone-flagged floors and air conditioning units.
Taking this under consideration as an Aire rather than as a Campsite, I think that we might rate it as a 4 star stop. Bear in mind that we did not explore the area at all, for fear of expiring from heat exhaustion.
Performed well. We had a comfortable ride of three hours there, and thoroughly appreciated her efficient cab cooling especially when we encountered roadworks in Limoges en route.
We did not cook, only prepared a salad.
The bed proved to be capacious and comfortable – we slept in a transverse configuration.
So far we are having trouble in adjusting to the more cramped conditions.
Importantly, we had failed to register how much more difficult it would be to deal with cats when we have a wide sliding door rather than a narrow hinged one.
Dusty seems quite happy to be attached to a line and to sit under the van in the shade, watching the birds.
Chloé popped outside for a look but fundamentally prefers being inside. Not a good choice in that extreme heat.
Nessa had another upgrade today and has been fitted with a Cruise Control. Diagnostic tests have been done and all is well but a test drive is now required.
On the Good News front, we finally became brave enough to examine the damage done to the flyscreen when Dusty escaped… and there isn’t any! The fact is, the screen is not secured at the bottom and any errant cat may simply slide under it. When seen in the dark it appeared wrecked but must in fact have only been a little rumpled. It’s fine. But, now that we know, we shall have to keeper tighter control on Dusty.
I still haven’t taken any photos of the van, been waiting for work to be completed and tools put away. I shall be packing the van tomorrow so hope to take that opportunity to take some beauty shots.
I said that she was coming and indeed she did. We collected Nessa from Naintré on the 19th of July and got her home in one piece, though not without a few hiccups – just a few rattles to sort out and an unfamiliarity with the Automatic gearbox arrangements.
The following day we took Nessa shopping and fitted her with a couple of gas cylinders at SuperU. Then we came home and set about moving everything that we had moved out of Heidi, into Nessa.
It did not take long to pack her, though it felt like an eternity in the extreme heat (we were experiencing a Canicule.) It was in fact that heat that sent us on our way sooner than we had thought that we might be off, not to mention to a further destination.
Mr Snail picked a destination based on where we might find a significantly lower temperature and off we went on the Monday, planning to stay out for up to three nights. In the event, we were home again next morning.
It was just too hot and the cats were troublesome and the two factors combined to drive us home.
Mr Snail appeared to enjoy the driving (3 hours or thereabouts) and things look good for covering greater mileages than we felt up to in Heidi Hymer. I certainly felt it to be a more comfortable ride. Nell liked travelling on the bed and the cats… well…
The bed proved to be very comfortable and I enjoyed the ease of getting in and out via the built-in steps.
Neither the cooker nor the shower were tested.
The fly screen on the sliding door is now broken, courtesy of one escaping feline.
Since we came home, the cat problem has been addressed – though we don’t yet know if we have found any actual solutions. Our next trip will be informative. We continue to seek a new home for one or both of them as this travelling life really does not suit – Dusty especially.
Also since arriving home Mr Snail has been making some changes (upgrades) to the van, which now has a second leisure battery plus some extra power sockets and a new controller for the electrickery bits.
I’ll write up the actual trip soon. I will also take some Nessa photos to share.