Deux Escargots

Deux Escargots

Where’s the Abbey?

We left Easkey in the rain. Though it rained much of the way to Crossmolina and was still raining when we parked up at Gortnor Abbey …

Easkey does it

Where were we up to? Ah, yes, Bundoran, I think. 

After two nights in Bundoran the weather had changed and we drove off on a soft St Valentine’s Day, in a fine drizzle. The plan was to go to an Aire at Gortnor Abbey Pier. I had asked around on Facebook for a suitable spot to stop and walk the dog on our way and Easkey (or Easky or Eskey or any one of the variant spellings that abound) had been suggested.

On our journey the character of the landscape changed considerably, becoming ever more agricultural and warmer and more lush. Numerous small tractors populated the road on our way. The heady aroma of muck-spreading seemed omni-present. That muck is good stuff though as I noted shortly before reaching Easkey that the grass here was growing well already. 

Easkey, apparently, is a surfer spot of world-renown. It remains unspoiled, a one-street village of the standard “two pub” size that we have come to understand and  recognise. It stands out however by virtue of its community-run caravan site. We decided to stop for the night and to move on to Gortnor Abbey Pier the following day.

Check in is at the Community building adjacent to the site. The code for the barrier and facilities is obtained on paying your €20  (Includes EHU). The free Wi-fi password had to be requested as it was not offered. (The staff appeared to be in need of some training and a customer information handout)

The Easkey site is small and unfussy. It is new, so the facilities block looks very spanking-new and promising. Accessibility is, as you might expect from a new-build site, very good (so far as this able bodied person can tell) with really roomy shower and lots of turnaround room in the Ladies.

The (cold) facilities block

There are three showers in both Ladies and Gents and each has one of them designed for Disabled use. Showers cost €2 for six minutes. To add insult to injury, the showers are of the push button type and deliver (I counted) around 12 seconds of water per push. Not enough to keep a body warm in the cold ambient temperature of the block. A blown air type heater on the wall by the entry door appeared not to be functioning.

Between the Ladies and Gents is a kitchen with kettle, toaster a couple of sinks and washing machine and tumble dryer. There is a small dining set and a book shelf with books etc. Presumably this can be used as a social space.

Vincent at Easkey

The motorhome pitches are hardcore and are very approximately level, each surrounded by plain grass (just cut – underlining my assessment that the grass was already under way for the year.)  We chose the most apparently level pitch. They are not “fully-serviced sites” as promised at the barrier and we think this applies only to the handful of static pitches sharing the park. Motorhomes have a hookup only, not even a dedicated water point.  It does make the overnight charge expensive for what you get, especially as we were unable to find any grey or black water waste points. Fresh water, rubbish and electricity only.

The free wi-fi provided a very weak signal to the van with only intermittent access. We tried indoors in the kitchen area but had no signal at all there.

The village has a couple of general stores, butchers, a pottery, Restaurant, Takeaway, bicycle hire and a small Heritage centre – most of which were closed for the season. The Pottery was open but we did not go in as I find it embarrassing to not spend money in such a place and we have simply nowhere in the van to put beautiful or delicate objets d’art. We were sad that Pudding Row was not open and i was equally sad not to be able to view the Heritage Centre, which is in a tiny cottage occupied until  the middle of last century – ultimately by a family of eight! This may not seem remarkable but the small size of the place has to be seen to be believed – it made the standard Scots two-room But-and-Ben look positively palatial. I imagine it was a one-room place, about the size of our van…. but with SIX kids in it.

There is a ruined Kirk dating back to medieval times. The kirkyard is tiny and jam-packed. Not possible to navigate without walking on graves,

I fact it is so tightly packed that it is difficult to photograph – it’s not easy to get back far enough to frame a shot.

There is a riverside walk down to the sea. No beach but there is a small harbour and a castle ruin plus the prospect of watching the surf dudes at play.

 

 

Open All Hours (Maybe)

We departed The Singing Inn on Sunday morning with the intention of using the Motorhome Parking offered at the Dunlewey Activity Centre. The centre sits close to the foot of Errigal, an iconic mountain that is supposedly an easy walk. I really fancied giving it a go.

One of the views with a layby attached, Doe Castle

It was a wonderful drive with some amazing scenery.  Unfortunately there is a paucity of parking areas from which to enjoy the views and take photographs.

Another view with a lay-by, which we made use of to regroup when Dunlewey was found closed. Errigal in the background

Our reference material indicated that the Dunlewey centre is open all year round but when we arrived it was signed as “Opening April 1st”. We pondered what to do over a late brunch in a lay-by and decided to carry on driving to our following day’s intended destination, Bundoran.

“Bundoran is a town in County Donegal, Ireland. The town is located on the N15 road near Ballyshannon, and is the most southerly town in Donegal. The town is a popular seaside resort, and tourism has been at the heart of the local economy since 1777.” (Wikipedia)

Bundoran is proper “seaside” – a popular resort apparently. As with all such places out of season it was not looking at its best but we were both raised on out of season resorts and are veterans of wet and chilly holidays in Skegness, Cleethorpes and Scarborough etc. … how bad could it be? We knew that Bundoran has two beaches and that Nell at least would be satisfied.

We took two nights, Sunday and Monday, at the Travers Holiday Park, which is situated right in the town centre. The site is adjacent to the town’s Retail Park so has plenty of facilities close by, including a 6 screen cinema, Lidl, an Indian restaurant and a laundrette. This latter was a good thing as the one thing which took us to this particular site was that it advertises a laundry room – which does not actually exist!

Vincent at Travers Holiday Park

The site is neat and tidy and the touring “super” pitches are very new indeed. €25 with EHU, water and waste dump on pitch. Showers are a whopping €3 extra for 6 minutes. On the plus side, the showers are controllable. Toilet block very clean and neat. There is good free Wi-fi and good telephone signal.

The proprietor, Neil, is friendly and helpful.

At the Wishing Chair

The promenade is a short walk away and the town offers a circular sea front walk in both directions. We took the Rougey Cliff Walk in order to view The Fairy Bridges and The Wishing Chair as tourists have done for two centuries or more.

We took advantage of the Monsoon Valley for dinner on Sunday and had a Chinese Takeaway on Monday night. Shopping at Lidl and the SuperValu supermarket opposite was quick and convenient

on the Bundoran sculpture trail – part of a work called “Dry”

 

The end of the dry spell

Shortly before we left on our Irish adventures I was telling somebody that we would be away for three weeks and that on my bucket …

Fun in Buncara

We left Portglenone and Northern Ireland behind us and headed for the Republic. The border is a soft one and really did not even announce …

Unserviced

With some reluctance we left Glenarm on Thursday morning and took the coastal route up to the Giant’s Causeway.

After a visit to the Causeway we were left with a decision to make on which Aire to venture to: Portrush (close by, 50p per hour and sloping ground) or Portglenone Marina. We decided to head for Portglenone. Further away to be sure but a chance to see some scenery and we had read good reports of the Aire.

Mr Snail started up the van and somehow put it into forward gear when de-parking. There was a bang but no damage was visible when checked…

Shortly after we departed the visitor centre, Vincent’s oil light came on. Luckily we were able to pull off the road into a parking area marked out along the road. The natural assumption was that we had cracked the sump on the kerb at the car park or something but nothing could be seen again.

Once we disengaged Panic Mode my brain took hold of the problem and I suggested that perhaps it was just time for an oil change or something… perhaps we had just clicked over on the mileage or it was a time-based event coincident with the parking indiscretion?

Possibly.

Possibly not.

Now, driving in Ireland is likely to take one past many  a burning chimney and the smell of smouldering peat can bring about further sense of panic when too concerned with the probabilities of oil-based vehicle problems.

Added to this, the warning light had gone out again. What kind of event would cause the light to come and go, The Driver wondered. Well, maybe it’s just a nag thing, a warning that comes on when starting up but soon goes off again once the awareness-raising is done?

It took many miles before either one of us could relax. I can however at this juncture say that my diagnosis was the correct one. once we arrived at our destination, this was confirmed by reading the Manual.

We got there anyway. That is the important thing.

The Aire at Portglenone Marina takes six vans and has French-style “Borne” facilities for water and waste. At €10  for 24 hrs including EHU, it offers additional facilities such as toilets, showers, laundry and kitchen facilities and even a recreational area (sitting room with TV). There is a car park adjacent and a children’s play park on its far side. The town is a short walk away.

Sounds great!

In reality we arrived to be told that the water was turned off, so we could not refill. When I asked about how the Borne worked and where the waste went… the reply was that the waste disposal cannot be used due to NI Water Board regulations. So, we could not empty either.

Although the posts are marked as €1 = 1 hr of electricity, in fact the token provided on arrival gives up to 24 hours of electricity. However, the hookup we connected to was not working and we had no electricity. We knew that the caretakers was returning to shut up the public toilets so we asked her when she arrived for a new token, and we connected to another post, which worked.

The toilets adjacent to the Aire close at 7pm but the key allowing access to the showers on the marina side give access to the toilets there, along with the laundry room and sitting room.

The tarmac pitches have something of a slope so we picked out the flattest of them and settled in. We had no company other than a gaggle of local children making a small nuisance of themselves for a while. Overnight the site proved quieter than we expected with it being so close to the town centre.

Signals on both of our phone networks were strong as was our mobile internet.

In the morning we went looking for breakfast, which we found at the Rose Cafe – where the friendly proprietor shared some motorhome knowledge with us, giving us a list of places to see and wild camping spots. We also sought out the Post Office, which was in the Spar supermarket, where we also refuelled the van. There as a second supermarket on the main street, which we thought to be excellent and it was stuffed full of good quality local produce. Unfortunately we needed no supplies and the fridge was full, so we could not buy.

Next stop, Buncara