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Going Home

Madame Escargot 6th April 2017 6th April 2017

We said goodbye to Kippford on Wednesday 29th March. Having packed the van there seemed little point in prolonging the agony. We turned Vincent towards the Galloway Forest Park and went to visit with the Red Deer. Mother Nature ensured that the weather was absolutely as bad as the last time that we visited, though perhaps a touch warmer this time.

Spike still had his antlers but was allowing Arran to rule the roost anyway

On Thursday we drove over to Glentrool, where Nell and Mr Snail enjoyed the full circular walk around the loch in the rain. I had things to do, so did them and then walked out in the opposite direction to meet the walkers on their return. It was a misty landscape by then, a little less than wet.

We were due to catch a 7:00 am ferry on Saturday morning at Ardrossan so travelled over to the West coast on Friday with the intention of finding a stopover close to the ferry port.

There was much wincing as we travelled over some extremely poor road surfaces on our way but the rain had finally ceased and the sun was shining for the most part. We drove through Barrhill (where we had once tried to buy a house), played a little in Girvan, and then went into Ayr for a spot of Tesco action so that we would be fully supplied on Arran.

I dislike Ayr. It is not just a dump, there are also personal factors that prevent me from feeling comfortable when in Ayr. I was happy to move on.

Armed with a list of potential wilding spots in both South and North Ayrshire, we headed for the most favoured first and found it barred to us. The next best on our list also had height bars and the situation was repeated. We drove as far as West Kilbride, then headed backwards to look at other potential spots. Height bars were everywhere.

Finally we called in at a hotel in West Kilbride. We had previously emailed the Waterside Hotel with an enquiry but, having had no reply, Mr Snail was sceptical regarding our chances. It turned out that we were made very welcome with no difficulties at all, despite the fact that a wedding was in progress. We ate well from the Light Menu (£15.95 for three courses, £13.95 for two), then returned to the car park sandwiched between the sea and the busy main road.

Salad of Watermelon and feta with a Caramelised Orange Sauce

Salmon and Cod fish cakes

Fish and Chips

Thai Green Chicken Curry

Crumble of the day Apple, honey, sultana)

Cheesecake of the day (raspberry & White chocolate)

We managed to sleep okay and were up at 05:30 and away to the ferry queue at Ardrossan, a few minutes back down the road.The ferry crossing was smooth and untroublesome. Being a Saturday the boat was teeming with walkers, cyclists and early season holidaymakers. We berthed at 08:00 and Mr Snail was somewhat taken aback to find that we could not park along the front at Brodick.

We had much time to kill until checking in at the campsite so it was fortunate that we found space in the car park behind the Co-op and were able to make a late breakfast and then walk Nell on the coastal path. Our plan was to exercise our National Trust membership cards at Brodick Castle but we had to wait until 09:30 to do that.

On our walk I found this pretty flower but could not understand why it was flowering so early nor why it had solitary flowers on what appeared to be a raspberry or blackberry plant…

We took a tour of the village and found a couple of good shops.

We purchased postcards, sweets, a newspaper and a paint by numbers set from the proper old-fashioned stationers-cum-bookshop and chocolates from the chocolate shop but resisted the prodigious sausage rolls at the bakery.

Goat Fell was looking magnificent under drifting low cloud but that cloud soon brought some rain with it. Luckily it did not last long and the sun was out again by the time that we were ready to explore the garden at Brodick, where we were the first visitors of the year. The site had only opened for the year just eleven minutes before we walked in.

I took many photographs and many of them were appalling. Also, I found more of the mysterious bramble plants.

Googling has come up with a surprising result on the brambles. I think that these may be a North American species, the Salmonberry. The fact that this escapee from cultivation is also called the Arran Raspberry is, I think, the clincher. First noted in Sannox in the 19th Century but not by me until the 21st!(http://www.nonnativespecies.org/factsheet/factsheet.cfm?speciesId=3058)

Although the site was only just opened, a tour of the garden showed that many of the Rhododendrons had already been and gone for this season.

Of course many remained to be enjoyed, along with the Magnolias and Camellias.

The Castle building is closed for this season but we were content to roam the woodland garden and admire the Rhodies.

And now, to the important bit… the Tea Room. Scone for me, Paradise Slice for him. Both declared to be average. The coffee was sub-par.

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Further adventures as soon as we have Internet and EHU again.

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Glenmore and home again

Madame Escargot 23rd March 2017 23rd March 2017

I have updated (literally, I added content and then changed the Publication date) the post made originally on the 15th, when we were about to set off for Glenmore. When I wrote it initially I completely forgot to mention a side trip to Wilsontown when travelling from New Lanark up to Cellardyke.

We made a leisurely day of it and began by stopping off at an NTS property, Crathes Castle, not long after crossing from Fifeshire to Aberdeenshire. It was a rather lovely morning, fresh and sunny and perfect for a woodland walk with Nell. we followed the walk with a cuppa and cake.

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The route that we took was the one over The Lecht… old stamping ground and a great sense of homecoming as we drove into the Glenlivet Estate.

Ceridwen going up one side of The Lecht…

… and Ceridwen whooshing down the other side

We cut across country by the back road to Nethybridge, thus coming in by Rothiemurchus and missing out Aviemore entirely.

Glenmore

The weather was still fair as we arrived, though cold – hats and gloves were required to take Nell out on the beach. The sun was shining when we left the van but by the time that we cleared the trees, the first flakes of the predicted snow had begun to fall.

The remainder of our stay was wet and quite chilly. Snow, up to six inches of it, had been promised for Thursday night and we did actually see some falling around tea-time, but nothing lay overnight.

What we did get on Friday was rather a deal of rain. This did not deter us however. We wrapped up and walked to Ryvoan in very similar weather to the day that we walked up there almost exactly a year ago, except it was a little less misty and rather more wet this time, and we took the same route too: Blue to the lake and then back down Blue to the Purple route to Allt Mor car park, then we picked up the White trail and joined the red/Yellow trail back to camp.

The rain did not cease…

… until we woke up to sunshine on Saturday morning and had to pack up and leave.

It was while Mr Snail was preparing the van for departure that the waste hose finally gave up the ghost, splitting entirely in two and thereby being rendered irreparable. Worse still, we would be unable to empty the waste tanks without a deal of unpleasantness…

The travel plan was to go on down to our usual Britstop in Perthshire, stopping at one or two NTS sites on the way so that we arrived about 6pm. Then a short hop back to base on Sunday. The overnight stop does not provide facilities after closing time (8pm).

We discussed the difficulties and agreed that the best plan was to come all the way back to base where we have facilities on hand and would be able to avoid burdening Vincent’s tanks any further. We also decided to call in at a Motorhome dealer’s in Perth on our way.

We got lucky at Dickson’s and were able to buy new pipe even though they could not help out with fitting it.

As we were driving down the M74 in Lanarkshire, Mr Snail asked how I fancied cutting across country again. “What – go by Leadhills and Wanlockhead? I asked. Fine by me. “Go for it!” I said, “so long as you aren’t too weary.” and so, we did. And it was lovely to see and I felt a pang of the heart and even looked to see if by any chance our old house was on the market (it wasn’t.)

It was all but dark by the time that we reached Kippford.

On Sunday morning, Mr Snail took a look at the waste pipe problem and he fixed it… very quickly, It is not a perfect fix yet but it will get us home without gaining us too many dirty looks from fellow campers.

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Ribble, Ribble – Clitheroe to Hawes via Bowland and Ingleton

Madame Escargot 16th January 2017 19th January 2017

The fog still clung to us as we left Bashall Barn for an exploration of the Forest of Bowland so i was not expecting to see much of its famed scenery but was rewarded as we topped the hill by finding the far side clear. We drove to Dunsop Bridge, which also claims to be the geographical centre of Great Britain. As already alluded to it is not the only place to make such claims and I personally prefer the one made by Haltwhistle, near to one of our recent stops in Northumberland.

Being a Sunday, the car park was about full but we managed to squeeze Vincent into a back corner and take Nell for a walk before we set off again for Ingleton, where we were booked into a CL just out of the village, at Stackstead Farm.

Stacksteads is a bit of a delight, in a very neat rural location. The CL site looks as though it was formerly the farmhouse garden as it lies directly outside the kitchen door, where I might add a very warm welcome was given. The field of permanent or seasonal caravans took us by surprise and the Bunk Barn was also previously unknown to us but we did have foreknowledge of the Leisure Centre. Yes, a pool with gym, spa and sauna! There is a drying room too. All the facilities are in beautifully restored former stone-built farm outbuildings. The toilet block is dated but serviceable, though not warm. Showers are 50p a go for electric tricklers – with a request not to occupy for more than ten minutes (only one shower for each gender.)

Just £13 a night, with EHU. Recommended.

We will return sometime, and stay a few nights so that we can go up Ingleborough, Whernside and Pen-y-ghent

The following day’s forecast was quite firm about forthcoming ice and snow and so we committed to heading back to Kippford with just one more stop at Hawes.

We set off for Hawes via Ribblehead, where we stopped to brew up after a quick dog walk up to the viaduct.

The weather was “mixed” with some great low cloud and sunshine breaking through

There was plenty of water around after the recent rain

There was a bitterly cold wind but dogs still need walks

The low cloud remained a threatening presence

The viaduct remains a challenge in my photographic repertoire. One day I’ll get a decent shot but it has not happened yet.

Our destination for the night was a CL just outside the hamlet of Gayle, itself on the edge of Hawes. In fact it was little more than ten minute’s walk from the camp site to the Hawes Creamery, where we stocked up on Wensleydale cheese.

Probably the quaintest CL we have discovered so far but another site where the facilities were less than appealing. In fact a little updating and TLC all round would not go amiss especially as this site is not cheap at £17, especially when compared to last night’s £13 stay at Stackstead Farm.

It was however very peaceful and handy for Hawes. We had the company of one caravan overnight,

Lovely low winter sunshine on the village church

Plenty of footpaths around Hawes and many wonderful stone barns

On Tuesday morning we turned towards Scotland. The journey from Hawes to the M6 is a treasury of delights. There were many points where I might have wished to leap out of the van with camera and tripod in hand, not least at Pendragon Castle. Ah well, perhaps some other time.

We occupied our time in drawing up outline plans for further trips, which we think we may confine now to short local jaunts until such time as we return to Orkney, though I am not ruling out another trip down to Pocklington in the Spring. We are thinking we are more likely to go out into the Galloway Forest for a couple of nights at a time rather than go wandering for two or three weeks at a time. There will of course be a long slow trip from here and up to the Pentland Firth when the time comes.

Our lunch stop was at Westmoreland Services Tebay (N) site, where we had a delicious hot steak and mushroom pie and bought goodies including wild rabbit, for that long-awaited rabbit stew. From there we came straight back to Kippford, stopping only for fuel.

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On the road with the new van

Madame Escargot 13th December 2016 13th December 2016

Leaving Winchcombe behind on a very frosty Tuesday morning, we turned Vincent’s head towards Derbyshire. Our first port of call was Bakewell, where we warmed up with hot Mocha and then bought Bakewell Pudding, bread and cheese before embarking for Chatsworth.

The Caravan Club site at Chatsworth was all but full, with only two pitches remaining and one of those was ours. We were told to drive round and choose the one that we preferred.

Why so busy at the end of November? Well, Chatsworth is always a popular venue but November sees the estate hosting a Christmas Market and our day there was the final one of the event. In fact, the GPS having failed us, we became snarled up in Market traffic when trying to find the caravan site. It is clearly an extremely popular event! We were happy to finally untangle ourselves and come to rest on the CC site, which is housed on the estate in what was once a walled garden and is far away from any traffic.

The river runs alongside the site, which gives direct access on the other side to over 1,000 acres of the estate park, by way of a little wooden door accessed from the little dog walk. A key to the door is provided on arrival.

There is a single central facilities block, well maintained but well used too. Many cheery “good mornings” were exchanged en route to the shower – mostly to the ducks and pheasants that were roaming the grounds, it must be said.

As immaculately kept as you could possibly imagine, this site has some added extras such as an under-cover outdoor play area, with table tennis and chess table.

A very pleasant place to stay but quite rigid in the Rules department. It was just bad luck, we think, that having arrived after a hard frost our water point was frozen and the hot water supply to the showers was a little iffy – both mornings only half the showers had hot water.

We walked into Baslow on our first morning – there is a direct footpath to the village through the estate, It remained frosty as we set off.

The Blue Plaque commemorates Joseph Paxton.

It was incredibly busy in the park, with a continuous flow of people walking towards us. There is a long distance footpath that runs through this way so there were hikers, visitors to the Christmas Market and also, no doubt, workers walking up from Baslow.

Business conducted at the village shop, we walked back to base again, pausing to snap the iconic view at t he bridge. Sadly I had missed this on the way down, when the thatched roof was decorated with frost but a gaggle of giggling schoolgirls were cluttering the scene. By the time that we returned the thaw had arrived.

Never resist a thatched cottage, especially when sited by running water

We dropped Nell off in the van and then walked up to the Christmas Market. I took my little camera with me and set it on B&W in the hopes of grabbing some “street” candid shots but the first thing that we did on arrival was to buy lunch from the Hog Roast stand. Mmmmmm…

Some scenes from the Fair (click for larger view)

The Organ Grinder (and his monkey)

Man’s Best Friend #2

Christmas Cheers

Oh, deer

Cool Trad

Meringues!

Man’s Best Friend #1

Lunch and a natter

Of course, we needed no supper after that.

On Thursday morning we meandered off to York, where we stayed at the CC site at Rowntree Park.

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Day 3

Madame Escargot 21st September 2016 21st September 2016

Note to Self: If parking overnight adjacent to a lighthouse, then expect the obvious.

Last night we sat in the front seats, Talisker at hand, inserted the USB stick with our music on it into the stereo (it began with Adiemus, I guess that we have no Abba) and watched the sea until it became dark… and then we watched the lights. We counted at least a dozen Lighthouses within view.

A fat orange moon rose over the sea to our right. I should have loved to go out and photograph it but (a) a strong wind had come up and (b) the lighthouse beam would have spoiled the effect anyway. Later we took the dog out before bed and marvelled at the Milky Way. This would be a stunning location for Aurora watching sometime.

The wind strengthened through the night and we were woken by the gentle thud of rubber on rubber as our mudflaps struck the wheels at intervals.

This morning dawned bright and fair. There was a lot of lenticular cloud lit by the rising sun. I felt as though I should go and observe this for myself, camera in hand but I was snug in my bed and coffee had been delivered. It was still very windy when we took Nell out for a morning walk – and that wind significantly cooler than the day before. I had to don a fleece.

We strolled down to the beach, where I tried to get some seal shots, There was some really good seal action but my camera skills let me down quite badly.

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The drive down to Dunbeath was a pleasant one. I have previously been unimpressed by Caithness, finding it bleak and unlovely but today I saw it with a fresh eye. The light was fabulous and I saw much photographic potential as we ambled along. My cries of “I should love to photograph that!” went unheard, unfortunately.

It was a short journey and we arrived in Dunbeath at midday. I confess to some alarm when I saw how narrow a gap we were aiming for in order to arrive at our overnight spot. I sucked my girth in and we made it. I am not looking forward to going out again!

It was worth it. This is a smashing spot, quiet and well out of anyone’s way.

After lunch we walked the dog along the Dunbeath Strath, which furnished me with a ruin to photograph, an old Inn.

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At one point I looked to my left and saw three deer, one young Roe buck and two does just standing on a rise in the middle of a field and looking directly at me. Whilst I was attempting to liberate my camera and park my walking pole, Nell came galloping back to see where we were and the deer were startled. I had to settle for enjoying the sight of their white alarm flags soaring over the fence and far away.

Dunbeath is a smashing wee place, full of interest and cannot be recommended highly enough. I would be happy to return here at any time.